Madagascar

Overview

Madagascar is a country in the Indian Ocean off the eastern coast of Africa . It is known for its particularly unique wildlife and flora. Madagascar split from India approximately 88 million years ago, and as a result of its long isolation it is home to a massive number of unique plant and animal species, with over 90% of its wildlife and 80% of its plants found nowhere else on the planet.

Madagascar's first settlers, the Austronesians , likely arrived in the mid-1st millennium CE. The island's first inhabitants are believed to have come from both Southeast Asia and East Africa.

Madagascar saw the rise of various powerful kingdoms and chiefdoms. Among them was the Merina Kingdom in the central highlands, which began to dominate in the 15th century. The Merina people developed a sophisticated political structure.

Experiences

Most people visiting Madagascar do so for the wildlife, and there are a number of national parks and private reserves scattered throughout the country. Some are easier to reach than others – the dual Andasibe-Mantadia National Park area is a few hours from the capital via a paved road, while other parks require days of driving and trekking to explore.

Scuba diving and snorkeling is exceptional in Nosy Be , and is also possible in other areas like Toliara . Be aware that the nearest hyperbaric chamber lies across the Mozambique Channel, and that outside of Nosy Be scuba equipment may not be up to expected standards, so exercise caution and be careful to minimize risks when diving. The condition of corals varies from pristine at Nosy Tanikely to completely destroyed elsewhere, and depending on time of year the visibility may exceed 30 metres, or may be reduced to zero by the outflow from rivers, which, due erosion caused by deforestation, can turn the ocean brown. In the far north near Diego kitesurfing and windsurfing are exceptional between April and November when a constant 30 knot-wind makes the area one of the best surfing spots in the southern hemisphere. Kayaking and deep sea fishing are always rewarding water activities.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site Rainforests of the Atsinanana is made up of six national parks along the eastern coast of Madagascar; Marojejy National Park , Masoala National Park , Zahamena National Park , Ranomafana National Park , Andringitra National Park and Andohahela National Park .

Culture and food

Bananas (hundreds of varieties) and rice cakes (Malagasy 'bread') are staple 'street food' and available everywhere. Coffee is very good, usually hand-made by the cup and served very sweet with condensed milk.

There are supermarkets all over Madagascar. The four biggest supermarkets chains are Super U, Score, Leader Price and Supermaki. All four Western style supermarket chains are well stocked. There are many Leader Price & Super U-branded goods but also some more local produce (veg, spices, etc.) Super U is slightly cheaper and has many stores in Antananarivo, Mahajanga, Toamasina and Antsirabe.

There is no safe tap water so be prepared with bottled water, which is usually easily obtainable. The only other option is ranon'apango (RAN-oo-na-PANG-oo) or rice water (water used to cook rice, which will therefore have been boiled). It's particularly important to plan ahead if visiting rural areas. It is worth taking with you some chlorine tablets, which can be used to make the local water drinkable.

In towns, roadside drink stands, stores and bars are plentiful. Most sell a range of drinks including bottled water, Fanta, Coca Cola and Madagascar's beer, Three Horses Beer (THB). You can also try the bubblegum flavoured 'Bonbon Anglais', which is to South American Inka Cola, although it may be sold as 'limonade' – leading you to think it may be lemonade.

Planning your route

Madagascar Airlines serves 11 destinations throughout the country, and provide a much faster option than driving given the poor state of many roads. While the airline will provide you with a hotel and book you on the next available flight in the case of a cancellation, don't book tight connections and always confirm your flight time the night before.

Taxi-brousse, or interurban shared taxi, is the way most natives travel around the country. There are three major modern roads in the country: RN7 from Tana to Toliara, RN2 from Tana to Tomasina (via Brickaville) and RN4 from Tana to Mahajanga. Trips between those towns take about a day, whereas traveling between Tana and Taolagnaro, a south-eastern coastal town, would take about 3 or 4 days due to the condition of the road. Travel is cramped, and don't expect air conditioning. Expect dust to be a problem in the dry season. Travel by taxi-brousse is guaranteed to test one's patience and sanity, but there is quite possibly no better way to meet and interact with the locals and experience Madagascar as the Malagasy do.

Taxi-brousse is by far the cheapest way to travel, but do not expect to leave or arrive on time. Indeed, the drivers wait for their 15-seat small buses to get full before leaving; therefore, a few hours' delay is never excluded. However, the trip allows you to admire the breathtaking landscapes of Madagascar. Most national parks and towns can be reached from Antananarivo; drivers will happily drop you off en route to their final destination.

Travel guide text compiled and adapted from Wikivoyage article (contributors). Sections were selected and reordered for this guide. Text is shared under CC BY-SA 4.0. Check current arrangements with your travel consultant.