Iraq

Overview

Iraq ( Arabic : العراق Al-Irāq , Kurdish : عێراق Êraq ) is a republic in the Middle East . It has an extremely rich history and culture that is still visible today, although accessing it may pose some challenges to visitors. It was once host to the region of ancient Mesopotamia , often called the "cradle of civilisation". After the rise of Islam, Baghdad became a center of learning and the arts during the Islamic Golden Age . Its holy cities of Najaf and Karbala now accept millions of pilgrims per year from throughout the Middle East.

Iraq is a melting pot of different cultures, with the Arabs being the largest ethnic group. Other prominent ethnic groups include the Kurds, Armenians, Assyrians, and Turkmens. And while Islam is the state religion, there are also various minority religions still actively practiced in the country. Most Iraqis are Shia Muslims, just like their Iranian counterparts.

In spite of the difficulties they face, Iraqis are nearly universally friendly and generous hosts. It is common to be offered free food and gifts, and they are often eager to chat with you.

Iraq is the birthplace of many of the Earth's oldest civilizations, including the Sumerians, Akkadians, Assyrians and Babylonians. A part of the Persian Empire from the 6th century BCE, the Caliphates between the 7th and 13th centuries and the Ottoman Empire from 1534, the Treaty of Sèvres brought the area under British control in 1918. Iraq gained independence in 1932.

On 14 July 1958, the long-time Hashemite monarchy was overthrown in a coup led by Abdul Kassem that paved way to radical political reforms, including the legalisation of political parties such as the Ba'ath and the Communist Party, both key players in the coup (also called the 14 July Revolution). Following the Revolution, the Soviet Union gradually became its main arms and commercial supplier.

When Iran became an Islamic theocracy in 1979, Saddam Hussein feared that Iran would threaten his leadership and control in a Shia-majority country, so he launched a full-scale invasion against the country in the 1980s, which would soon culminate into open warfare. To fund its military objectives, the Ba'athist regime borrowed extensively from other countries, pushing the country to near bankruptcy. Historians have documented that the Ba'athist regime extensively used chemical weapons during the Iran-Iraq war. The Iran-Iraq war lasted for eight years and it claimed more than 500,000 casualties. The war ended in a stalemate.

Life for the vast majority of Iraqis has become incredibly miserable, and many have since emigrated in search of better opportunities elsewhere. Many Iraqis feel there's no hope or future left for their country, although a small portion of people feel that things will change in due time. The prospects of change seem remote at best, but hopes are high.

Sights and landscapes

Iraq's oases are the backbone of agricultural sustainability, water management, and biological stability against desertification. Fertile groves can be seen in communities of green belts and historic waterways.

Culture and food

Iraqi cuisine is centred on grilled meats, slow-cooked stews, rice, and fresh bread. Meals are social events — portions are generous, tea follows every dish, and refusing food is considered impolite. Street food is abundant and inexpensive throughout the country, while sit-down restaurants range from simple local grills to upmarket riverside establishments in Baghdad.

Masgouf is considered the national dish of Iraq. It is an open-cut carp (a freshwater fish) roasted for hours after being marinated with olive oil, salt, curcuma and tamarind while keeping the skin on. Traditional garnishes include lime, chopped onions, and tomatoes. It is often served with flatbread. The best masgouf is found along the Tigris in Baghdad, particularly on Abu Nawas Street, where restaurants prepare the fish over open wood fires.

Quzi (or ghoozi ) is slow-roasted lamb served over fragrant rice with almonds and raisins. It is the centrepiece of celebrations, weddings, and large family gatherings throughout Iraq.

Kubba (كبة) are fried or boiled bulgur wheat shells stuffed with spiced minced meat. Varieties differ by region — Mosul is known for its kubba mosuliya, while Baghdad's version is typically deep-fried and served with lime.

Tashreeb is a hearty stew poured over torn pieces of flatbread, allowing the bread to soak up the broth. Tashreeb dijaj (chicken) and tashreeb baamia (okra) are common varieties, often eaten for breakfast or lunch.

Samoon is Iraq's ubiquitous diamond-shaped bread, baked in wood-fired ovens and served with virtually every meal. Freshly baked samoon from a neighbourhood bakery is a staple of Iraqi daily life.

Iraqi tea ( chai ) is served strong and sweet in small glasses called istikans , often accompanied by cardamom. It is offered everywhere — in shops, at checkpoints, and in homes — and is central to Iraqi hospitality.

Planning your route

Due to the autonomous nature of Iraqi Kurdistan , travelling between Iraqi Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq will involve border inspections as if you were travelling internationally.

Overnight trains link Baghdad with the southern city of Basra , there is a slow train taking up to 12 hours for the full journey and an express one making the journey in 6-7 hours. There are also daily trains between Baghdad and Fallujah as well as irregular services to the holy city of Karbala , especially during religious festivals. Train travel is considered relatively safe, mainly due to the extensive security checks all passengers have to go through before boarding the train.

Travel guide text compiled and adapted from Wikivoyage article (contributors). Sections were selected and reordered for this guide. Text is shared under CC BY-SA 4.0. Check current arrangements with your travel consultant.